1. Underlayment not held down
tightly while being fastened to the subfloor. 2. Staples or nails are not
long enough to secure underlayment properly. 3. Soft or punky subfloor 4. Wet
subfloor (surface water may accumulate during construction). 5. Some
waferboards or particleboards. 6.
Installing underlayments over single floor systems (ie:
¾” tongue & groove). 7. Gun
pressure set too high (resulting in staple blow-through). 8. Not
enough staples or nails (2” on seam, 4” in field). 9. Wet
floor patch (allow patch to dry thoroughly). 10. Floor
patch not properly applied. 11. Glue
forced between panels. 12. No
expansion joint left between wall and underlayment. 13.
Bouncing pneumatic stapler (using safety mechanism as trigger); seldom
had this problem with mallet type tackers. 14.
Working itself loose over time (doesn’t show up the next day). 15.
Not enough glue, resulting in bubbled or released vinyl over
underlayment joints or patch areas; approximately 75% coverage is
needed to properly adhere vinyl to underlayment. 16. Too
much adhesive open time, resulting in adhesive too dry to properly
adhere vinyl to underlayment. Adhesive will dry or
set much faster over the porous patch areas. 17.
New vinyls are whiter, glossier, thinner (making underlayment
imperfections more easily seen) and vinyl backings are still changing. 18. High
or low floor joist. 19. Uneven
subfloor – these must be sanded before
¼” underlayment is installed. 20. 75 or
100 lb. Linoleum roller not used – must be rolled in both
directions. 21.
Cold sheet goods or cold adhesive. If floor covering is unrolled at a
temperature below 65°F, a surface wrinkle may appear
– this is known as
piping. These wrinkles must be removed prior to installation by
bringing sheet goods up to 65°F for no less than 24 hours. Cold
adhesive or cold sheet goods can affect both adhesive set-up and
adhesive bond. 22.
After fastening, thoroughly sand all underlayment joints with a belt
sander until level. Hand sanding is not sufficient enough to correct
any unevenness between panels. 23. Avoid
over-sanding or cupping of the joints. 24. Patch
all voids, gaps, gouges and chipped edges. 25.
Patching all joints with a minimal amount of floor patch, but being
sure patch is forced into all joint areas. 26.
All patching compounds should be mixed with latex liquids, regardless
if they are powdered latex solutions or not. Latex liquids are bonding
agents and ensure the best adhesion and provide maximum flexibility of
patch. 27. Allow
floor patch to dry properly and sand all joints level; some touch-up or
a second coating may be needed, then sand again. 28.
Make sure all patching is completely dry before installation of new
vinyl. Wet patch may contribute to problems of mold or mildew
discoloration. 29. Wet
patches are not totally stable and some may shrink or swell. 30.
If joints are not properly filled, adhesives may get forced into the
joint area and could possibly be forced out. If panel
expansion
is experienced, this will also cause seam telegraphing.
JOINT TELEGRAPHING - TIME LINE
Probable cause of joint telegraphing if complaint
happens for period after installation:
2 DAYS
2 WEEKS
2 MONTHS
Wet floor patch
Fastening problem
Improper fastening
Wet subfloor
Wet crawl spaces
Movement / home
Improper acclimation
Wet subfloor
(12°m.c.)
Rolling heavy objects
CHECK
Movement in subfloor
Deflection in subfloor
Subfloor, crawl spaces
Panels installed too
tight
Possible cold sheet goods
No spacing around wall
perimeter or other fixtures
Over-sanding
Uneven subfloor
Too much patch
Improper gluing of panel
to subfloor
LOOSE VINYL TO FINGER:
Wet patch
Cold temperature
Too little adhesive
No vinyl roller used
Too much spacing between panels
Uneven subfloor