GLUING
Q. Can you glue Floor-Ply down?
A. Yes. However, if you choose to do this, be sure to use a paint roller to spread the adhesive evenly. DO NOT use a caulking gun, trowel, or pour glue indiscriminately onto the subfloor; this would create ridges underneath the underlayment and would cause fasteners to 'walk loose' over time.

Q. What is the recommended adhesive to use with Floor-Ply?
A. There is not one specific glue to use; however, we do recommend a white p.v.a. (polyvinyl acetate) or carpenter's glue, or other non- staining adhesive.

FASTENERS
Q. What is the recommended staple?
A. A chisel point 1/4" crown, galvanized thermo-coated staple with a leg length long enough to penetrate 100% into the subfloor or approximately 1/4" through the subfloor. This usually requires a 1-1/8" to 1-1/2" staple length, but may require longer leg lengths for renovation work depending on the thickness of the substrate (any additional layers on top of subfloor).

Q. Why would you put a staple through the subfloor? Aren't there problems associated when fasteners penetrate a subfloor?
A. At one time there were problems caused by this practice; however, advanced technology has produced the new thermo-coated (plastic coated) staples on the market today, which have eliminated the earlier troubles.
The past problems that existed were:

* Reaming - the staple lost holding power
* Wicking - the difference in temperature below and above the subfloor caused condensation to form on the staple leg and 'wick' up the staple. This created a bacteria process, which then caused spot staining on vinyl floors.

The good news is that holding power is not lost with these new thermo-coated staples; in fact, there is approximately 35% more holding power than the same staple without the thermo-coating.
Also, the thermo-coating serves to seal the staple puncture, which prevents moisture from wicking up the staple leg to the vinyl surface.

Q. Can I use divergent staples?
A. DO NOT use divergent staples with Duratec underlayment.
Divergent staples were designed so that the staple legs would diverge (either cross or flare), increasing holding power. However, due to the high density of Duratec panels, the divergent staple legs have a tough time going through the panel, causing them to diverge prematurely. What results is that the installer thinks the panel is fastened, but in effect the staple legs are all neatly folded or splayed under the underlayment without having even touched the subfloor.

Q. What is the # 1 fastening problem with 1/4" underlayment installations that you encounter as a flooring inspector?
A. Not standing or kneeling on the panel while fastening to ensure underlayment is in firm contact with the subfloor before firing a staple. This problem can cause the staple to be driven down too far into the 1/4" underlayment, leaving very little holding power which may cause the panel to walk loose from the subfloor over time.

Make sure the staple crown is flush with the underlayment panel surface. Adjust air pressure accordingly if using an air stapler or nailer. Take precautions not to blow staple through Duratec by using air pressure that is set too high. A common mistake is that installers will use the same air pressure that they use for thicker wood underlayments, and this may cause staple blow-through in a 1/4"engineered wood underlayment. Each panel requires a different air pressure based on its thickness and density.

Q. What are the approved fasteners for Duratec?
A. 1. Correctly sized chisel point thermo-coated staples (requires little or no
prep work)

* Ring Underlayment Nails, 3/16" head (Be careful with the headsize as larger ones are also sold as "underlayment" nails but are not approved fasteners.)
* NO SCREWS. Screws are not approved fasteners. Due to the 1/4"thickness of the panel there is very little holding power left when the screw is fastened flush with the panel surface. Screws also create additional patching work for the installer.

PATCH
Q. What type of patch is approved for applying to Floor-Ply joints?
A. Use a cementations patch only. DO NOT use gypsum patch.
NOTE: The use of a liquid latex or acrylic additive should be used even if the patch you are using states on the box that it has acrylic polymers added. However…
NOTE: If the manufacturer of the patch specifically states not to add acrylic or liquid latex to their product, DO NOT add further additive - it may interfere with their precise formula.
The use of liquid latex adds strength and flexibility to the patch. This type of additive that installers frequently use is also referred to as "white milk", "moose milk", 'laytex', 'acrylic milk', etc.
NOTE: The use of liquid additive may add additional drying time to the patch. Sand patch only when patch is thoroughly dry.

Q. How is Floor-Ply Shipped in the containers?